Cruelty-Free: Why, How, and Who

The "why" is pretty simple: I don't want bunnies blinded for my benefit, or tumors induced in rats so I can look pretty.  It turns my stomach.  It's the idea of harmless animals tortured for essentially no reason.  I can't claim to be the superhero of animal rights as I eat meat, wear leather, and support medical research, but there are logical reasons behind those (protein source, full use of the animal, and human lives saved though I'm sure there are many people who would disagree with me!).  Whereas looking good?  I can't fathom it.  THERE ARE HUMANE ALTERNATIVES TO ENSURE SAFETY.  So I choose to support cruelty-free brands.

But why do cosmetics companies even do it?  The European Union has banned all cosmetics and ingredients used in cosmetics that have been tested on animals, that should be a pretty big deterrent, right?  Well, it should until you look at China as an example.  China is a HUGE market and they REQUIRE animal tests to prove safety for products to be sold there.  Therefore many companies conduct testing to be allowed to sell to that market and Chinese companies must test.  Huge, very popular brands like Sephora are Chinese-owned and thus conduct animal-testing.  In addition, the U.S. does not regulate the use of the phrases "cruelty-free" or "not tested on animals" which makes deciphering these claims difficult.  From the FDA website:

"Some cosmetic companies promote their products with claims such as 'CRUELTY-FREE' or 'NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS' in their labeling or advertising. The unrestricted use of these phrases by cosmetic companies is possible because there are no legal definitions for these terms.

Many raw materials, used in cosmetics, were tested on animals years ago when they were first introduced. A cosmetic manufacturer might only use those raw materials and base their 'cruelty-free' claims on the fact that the materials or products are not 'currently' tested on animals.

Some companies may apply such claims solely to their finished cosmetic products. However, these companies may rely on raw material suppliers or contract laboratories to perform any animal testing necessary to substantiate product or ingredient safety. Other cosmetic companies may rely on combinations of scientific literature, non-animal testing, raw material safety testing, or controlled human-use testing to substantiate their product safety."

Cosmetics tend to throw another wrench in the works though.  It's not often apparent but many brands that don't test on animals are owned or have been acquired by parent companies that DO.  For example, Urban Decay has long been known as a cruelty-free brand, but they were obtained by L'Oreal, who is NOT cruelty-free, in 2012.  If you wish to avoid supporting cruelty-free brands exclusively, including parent companies, you will have to be more diligent and do your research.  However, there may be good reason to support these subsidiaries.  My Beauty Bunny puts it pretty succinctly:

"We believe that supporting animal-friendly companies goes a long way toward the eventual elimination of animal testing. If the parent companies see the successes of their brands who do not test, it’s a win. It’s also a win for the animal-friendly companies to get larger distribution in mass channels by being involved with huge companies. That’s our personal opinion here at My Beauty Bunny and we invite you to make up your own mind on the matter!"

So how do you sort out this mess?  Firstly, decide how exactly you feel about testing.  Do you support completely cruelty-free?  Do you choose to support cruelty-free subsidiaries in hopes of getting the parent company to take notice?  Do you not care at all, in which case why are you even reading this?  If you feel strongly about this subject, DO YOUR RESEARCH.  Good places to start are Leaping Bunny (gocrueltyfree.org) and PETA's searchable catalog of cruelty-free companies.  Be aware that their standards are different!  The Leaping Bunny created an internationally-recognized standard in the 90s that companies must adhere to in order to remain on the list in addition to being open to independent audits to ensure their adherence.  PETA requires that companies sign an assurance or submit a statement indicating that neither they nor their suppliers test on animals.  Cruelty-Free International is also a good resource.

Personally, I will consider supporting cruelty-free subsidiaries in hopes that the parent company will consider the matter more closely and hopefully go completely cruelty-free.  I keep a list of which companies adhere to Leaping Bunny's standards and refer to it when purchasing my cosmetics.  I support anti-cruelty reform in many areas, including animal abuse, animal fighting, etc.  Make up your own mind and do what you feel is right.  If you're serious about the issue, get involved!  There are many, many ways to help from signing petitions to donating money to your own personal conduct, and more.